RECIPE

Pesan Be Pasih: Balinese Spiced Fish Grilled in Banana Leaf

A whole or filleted fish slathered in fragrant base genep, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled until smoky and flaky. Pesan be pasih is coastal Bali on a plate.

MyGlob Editorial April 29, 2026 2 min read
Pesan Be Pasih: Balinese Spiced Fish Grilled in Banana Leaf

Walk along any fishing village in Bali and you will eventually smell pesan be pasih before you see it: banana leaf charring over coals, releasing the heady scent of turmeric, lemongrass and grilled fish. 'Pesan' describes the technique of wrapping food in banana leaf and grilling it, while 'be pasih' means sea fish. Compared with a parcel of diced fish, pesan be pasih usually keeps the fillet or whole fish more intact, so you get clean, flaky pieces perfumed by the marinade and the leaf.

Ingredients

  • 1 whole white fish (around 600 g) cleaned and scored, or 4 firm fillets such as snapper or mackerel
  • Banana leaves, softened over a flame, for wrapping
  • Juice of 1 lime and 1 teaspoon salt, for the initial seasoning
  • For the base genep: 6 shallots, 4 garlic cloves, 3 to 4 red chillies, 3 cm fresh turmeric, 3 cm galangal, 2 cm ginger, 2 candlenuts, 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon shrimp paste (terasi)
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised, plus extra finely sliced for the paste
  • 4 kaffir lime leaves
  • 3 tablespoons coconut oil and a small piece of palm sugar
  • Bamboo skewers or string to secure the parcels
  • Rub the fish inside and out with lime juice and salt and leave for 15 minutes.
  • Grind the shallots, garlic, chillies, turmeric, galangal, ginger, candlenuts, toasted coriander seeds and shrimp paste into a smooth paste.
  • Fry the paste in coconut oil over medium-low heat until it darkens and turns deeply aromatic, around 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the finely sliced lemongrass, shredded lime leaves and palm sugar near the end, then let it cool.
  • Coat the fish generously with the spice paste, working it into the scored flesh and cavity. Tuck a bruised lemongrass stalk alongside.
  • Wrap the fish snugly in softened banana leaf, layering two leaves if needed, and secure with skewers or string so no paste escapes.
  • Grill over hot coals or on a barbecue, turning occasionally, for about 20 to 25 minutes for a whole fish or 12 to 15 minutes for fillets, until the leaf is charred and the fish flakes easily.
  • Let the parcel rest a few minutes, then unwrap at the table to release the aroma.

Method

  1. 1It is a forgiving dish for home cooks because the leaf protects the fish from the fierce heat of the grill, keeping it moist even if your timing is not perfect. The heart of the recipe is base genep, the all-purpose Balinese spice paste. Get that right and you are most of the way there.
  2. 2Banana leaf can scorch through quickly over very hot coals, so manage your fire and use a double layer if your heat is intense. The goal is a charred exterior leaf protecting gently steamed, smoky fish within.
  3. 3Frying the spice paste properly is the non-negotiable step. Cook it slowly until it loses its raw smell and the oil starts to separate, which is the sign that the flavours have fully developed. This is what gives authentic Balinese grilled fish its depth.
  4. 4Serve pesan be pasih with steamed rice, sambal matah and a squeeze of fresh lime. The combination of smoky fish, fragrant paste and the cool, sharp sambal is the essence of a Balinese seaside meal, and it is surprisingly easy to bring to your own grill.
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Quick Answer

Pesan be pasih is a classic Balinese dish of fresh fish coated in a rich spice paste called base genep, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over coals until smoky and tender. The banana leaf locks in moisture and aroma, giving the fish a fragrant, lightly charred flavor. You will find it at warungs, seafood spots and Balinese restaurants across the island.

Key Facts
Dish type
Balinese grilled fish
Key spice paste
Base genep
Wrapping
Banana leaf
Cooking method
Grilled over charcoal
Where to find
Warungs and seafood restaurants
Key Takeaways
  • Pesan be pasih is a traditional Balinese grilled fish dish.
  • The fish is coated in base genep, Bali's signature spice paste.
  • Wrapping in banana leaf keeps the fish moist and aromatic.
  • It is grilled over charcoal for a smoky, lightly charred taste.
  • You can find it at warungs and seafood restaurants across Bali.
Frequently Asked Questions
It is a Balinese dish of fish coated in spice paste, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over coals until fragrant and tender.